Skies of Scrap
The country if full of iconic sights, rich history, surreal country roads and amazing landscapes. There is even a 32 mile stretch of road called, “The Enchanted Highway.” It begins just east of Dickinson, North Dakota, at the Gladstone exit (Exit 72) off Interstate 94. There, you will find the largest scrap metal sculpture in the world. “Geese in Flight” is 110 feet tall and 150 feet wide and contains 10 geese in various stages of flight. A small road leads you up to the hill where it presides over the freeway. This is only the beginning. Heading south on a two-lane road there are seven more of the world’s largest scrap metal sculptures.
The road passes over the interstate where I began a journey into the heart of the state’s southwestern countryside. Ranchland, long ago abandoned homesteads, and buttes dot the way. Just as it began to appear to be an average country road, I saw “Deer Crossing.” No, not deer crossing the road, but rather, the so named metal sculpture. This sculpture depicts two deer: one jumping a fence and another one waiting just behind. There is a huge pullout for this attraction. There are large pull outs for all the sculptures, but this one could easily be a Drive-In movie lot.
Just down the road something got my attention that was not a sculpture at all. It was the partial ghost town of Lefor with only a few lingering residents. Here, I found an old bank vault in an open field; all that is left of the Lefor State Bank. There were other interesting building remains as well. I tinkered around Lefor for a bit, but then it was off to “Grasshoppers in the Field.”
Fisherman’s Dream. A very intricate display.
“Grasshoppers in a field” sounds innocent enough, but these Caelifera are the size of a double decker bus and look just as menacing. But perhaps the most intricate and elaborate in my opinion, is the next sculpture, named “Fisherman’s Dream.” This complex monstrosity reaches high in the sky. At 50 feet is the water line. A fisherman is catching a fish many times the size of his boat. Beneath the waterline is a multitude of other fish, plants, and marine life. I had not seen such detailed metal art since my Borrego Springs adventure. See https://outerrealmz.com/the-beasts-of-borrego-springs/. The pullout for this attraction has a picnic area, as does several of the others.
As I neared the town of Regent, I came across, “Pheasants on the Plains,” “Teddy Rides Again,” and “The Tin Family.” Like their predecessors, these scrap metal art creations are larger than life, much larger. Although tall and metallic, the names of these sculptures are self-explanatory to a point. (The photographs I am providing in this post helps the reader to better understand the visual aspects of the pieces, but in no way compares to standing before them.)
Where the Road Ends
At last, I entered the rural town of Regent. In all respects it appeared what one may consider a typical small town on the North Dakota plains. That is, until the road dead ended at “The Enchanted Castle.” That’s right, and why not end the Enchanted Highway with a grand finale. It is actually a motel, of sorts, dressed up to look like a small castle, complete with a tiny drawbridge and suits of armor lining the hallway within. Visit http://enchantedcastlend.com/ for more information.
Next to the Enchanted Castle is yet another giant scrap metal sculpture of a knight fighting a dragon. Parts are missing from this display, as it is a work in progress. I came out of the Enchanted Castle and stood before it, observing how it was being put together. Another man walked up beside me. He too was studying it, but in a different way. He was working the details over in his mind. He was no observer at all. He was the creator!
Gary Greff is a middle-aged man with the stains of hard work on his hands and face. I was unbelievably fortunate to be standing next to the architect of The Enchanted Highway. Better yet, he took the time to talk to me. Gary began his life-long undertaking 31 years before, in 1989. He told me it takes, roughly, six years to complete each sculpture. “Sometimes, I don’t know why I do it,” he said, “climbing up these things in the cold and wind, welding and working without getting paid for it.”
A work in progress.
But the fact of the matter is he started this endeavor for an exceptionally good reason. His hometown of Regent was dying. The population had gone from 500 to a 100 when he began. The idea was to attract people in an unusual way. How about the world’s largest scrap metal art collection? He explained, “Nobody was going to the first few I built. So, I went to the interstate and did ‘Geese in Flight,’ to get people off the freeway and out to Regent.” It worked. In fact, “Geese in Flight” entered the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest scrap metal sculpture in 2002. Today six thousand tourist cars per year travel The Enchanted Highway.
Even with all that has transpired over the past 31 years, Gary still does not get the full support of Regent. However, the state awarded $75,000 to help with upkeep on the works. Until then, Gary used donations and the money he made working his gift shop and the motel.
When you drive the Enchanted Highway and follow the scrap metal sculptures all the way to Regent, be sure to get something at the giftshop, stay a night at the Enchanted Castle, or just put some gas in the tank. By doing this, you are not only supporting the local art endeavor, but you are helping to save a town as well.
Say hi to The Tin Family
One of many suits of armor inside the Enchanted Castle
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