We sailed from Gananoque, Ontario, on a pot-bellied transport boat with a sleepy-eyed skipper who worked the steerage with his feet. Trish and I sat tight as we gently warbled down the Saint Lawrence River, which divides Canada from the United States. We were traversing the area known as the Thousand Islands, which is no exaggeration at all. In fact, there are many more than a thousand of them; some of the larger ones with rolling hills and villages with picturesque bays and lagoons. others but a fragment of a few yards with a single little tree clinging to it.

We cruised past millionaire row, which is basically lonesome mansions of the early 1900’s partially visible through trees, gripping the girth of their atolls. These were built by the tycoons of the day as retreats from their day to day operations. Summer homes if you will; very large and expansive summer homes.

But our destination was a certain island with a certain structure and built by a certain mogul for a different reason. As we neared that island we could clearly see his monument towering over it. An hour and a half after leaving port, our good skipper stirred from his stagnation, took the helm with his hands, and guided us to the dock.

Although gallant and solid; upon first seeing Bolte castle, jutting abruptly from its tiny island, one tends to view something of a haunting anguish. The 120 room Rhineland style structure is not alone. In its shadows protrude a powerhouse, a dove cote, and the quirky accent of Alster tower. Very little, if any, of Heart island is untouched by the Bolte estate. There is also a welcoming archway, Gardens, Gazebo’s, and a mall dock, since by water is the only way in or out.

Enter George Bolte, general manager of the Waldorf Astoria in New York and manager of the Bellevue Strafford Hotel in Philadelphia. He and his family used to vacation on the island, and in 1900 he began building the huge masonry marvel that stands today. Why? As a surprise gift to his wife, Louise, of course. But in 1904, before the castle was finished, she died, and the grieving George never returned to the island. The six-story wonder was left as a “monument to his love.”

For 73 years the structures of the island were left to decay and crumble in the harsh climate. In the 1970’s the Thousand Island Bridge Authority took over ownership of the estate and began an ambitious restoration project.

These restoration efforts are most evident in the castle itself, complete with rebuilt floors, staircases and replica furniture of the era. Some of the furniture is original such as the sprawling dining room table and chairs. Elevators have also been installed for those not up to climbing set after set of spiraling steps. Below the castle are a series of tunnels that lead to various destinations on the isle. To my disappointment the tunnels are blocked off but for the main tunnel beneath the castle. It is cool and damp and there are wooden crates of ceramic tile shipped in 1901, never removed from the containers.

As beautiful as the castle interior is, I was drawn to the other buildings on the island. We ventured to the powerhouse, which is a castle unto its own with high cone tipped towers and narrow arrow-port like windows. Some of machinery used are on display just inside the main entrance.

Likewise, the Dove Cote, is an enchantment of its own. The narrow stone structure with its top rebuilt is a good subject for any photographer.

I suppose, mostly because of its appearance and weirdness, I was longing to get to Alster Tower. Here, Trish and I embarked on a frenzied photo taking session. This structure, also known as the playhouse, I believe would far exceed the requirements and imagination of any rich child. As well as a tower, there is also an underground complete with a bowling alley. The fireplaces are of marble and crowned with crossing swords. One of them is adorned with a set of armor beside it.

In our scurrying about to find the best photos Trish and I became separated. This went on for about a half hour, and I imagine that while I was walking one side of the tower she was on the other, and we would alternate without seeing each other. Finally, we reunited in the courtyard and shared our photos. We spent a couple hours on the island. We could have easily spent all day, but we heard the whistle of the boat blow, and could not miss our only way back.

Heart Island is open to the public June through October. You can catch a ride on a boat from either the Canadian side, of the US side. Heart Island is on the US side, so if your sailing from Canada, passports are a must.

It is mind boggling when you realize all there is to see on this one small island. But it is even more so when one considers it was all created for the love of one person. This monument to love is not one to miss.