The gloomy interior is pierced by a sphere of light from the arrow port above. I call out to those behind me, “Follow me!” Carefully, we begin to ascend the cold and crumbling steps, occasionally reaching out for the damaged walls. Eventually, the four of us make it up to the vertical shaft, and we crowd together on the landing. From this narrow vantage point we can survey a large swath of the ancient battlefield below. In quick succession we snap off a volley of shots with our cell phones.

Standing as a lone and haunting sentinel at the Scottish border with England is the ominous presence of Hermitage castle. It’s 800 years of existence has been host to some of the bloodiest and disturbing episodes in Scottish history. Now, but a shell of its former self, it still boldly displays its sinister nature.

First built as a wooden fortress in 1240, it was converted to its present stone stronghold that is seen today about a hundred years later when the Douglass family captured it. Indeed, the castle has been under the control of several families throughout its history. Likewise, it has seen its share of interesting visitors as well. Mary, Queen of Scots, hastened to the castle by horseback after James Hepburn, 4th earl of Bothwell was injured in a sword fight with little Jock Elliot in 1566. It is the only known hint of romance connected to the castle, and, Queen Mary, was married to Lord Darnley at the time.

 Black magic and and sorcery have, as well, been attributed to the place.  Wiiliam De Soulis, a warlock from Hermitage, was schooled under the wizard, Michael Scot of the Eildon hills. Soulis practiced devil worship and child sacrifice within the walls of Hermitage. The people living in the area became enraged when several children came up missing, and plotted to overthrow the powerful warlock, who was also owner of the castle at that time.  The people sent a mighty warrior,  Cout of Keilder, to kill Soulis. However, Soulis’s men pinned Cout under the Hermitage waters with their spears and drowned him. Taking matters into their own hands the people eventually rushed Hermitage, captured Soulis and boiled him in a cauldron of molten lead until his bones dissolved.

If you’re a ghost chaser, there are many to chase. Noted sightings include Mary, Queen of Scots, knights wearing bloody armor, headless figures in windows and the evil warlock himself.

But the overall purpose of this guardhouse was to guard against the invading English. From the time of Robert the Bruce up until the turn of the 17th century many a battle was fought here and in the surrounding areas. Scottish clan armies were launched from here and the sight or mere mention of Hermitage struck fear into many an English soldier.

However, with all of its glory and might, Hermitage became obsolete and deserted after the Union of the Crowns in 1603. The upper floors and other wooden structures rotted away, and moss grew from the stone walls, but the foreboding stature never changed, leaving its powerful gaze over the valley unfettered. Since 1930 it has been under the care of historic Scotland.

 It sits on a grassy knoll about a quarter mile from the road. In a state of arrested decay, the only visible additions are iron stairs to take you to vistas of the interior. Arrow ports, old stone steps to nowhere, and ancient celtic engravings mark the way.  There is a graveyard and chapel ruins a few hundred yards away.  Because Hermitage castle is not easy to find, and far from a tourist hot spot, we had the place entirely to ourselves.

The surrounding countryside is nothing short of enchanting; complete with green rolling glens, stone walls and, of course, sheep. 

Hermitage castle, once referred to as “The guardhouse of the bloodiest valley in Britain,” is located about five miles from the English border not far from Hawick, Roxburghshire. If you ever find yourself in southern Scotland, do not miss this incredible opportunity to see such a testimonial to history. You will not be disappointed!