Cruising down 89A between Jacob’s Lake and Bitter Springs there are many inspiring sights to see. Most of these sights have something to do with the various formations of red sandstone. In Marble Valley, not far from Soap Creek, are structures built around strange outcroppings resembling plumes, mushrooms and columns, often called Hoodoos.
If you are at all like me you’ll zoom right past it, which I did, only to realize five seconds later, I needed to turn around. Upon closer inspection, the first thing which became apparent was the larger structure had a huge rock for a roof. In actuality, stone walls have been built around the outer edges of a fallen boulder. The stones are cut square and of a slightly lighter color than the dominate red landscape.
However, this is not a relic of ancient Native-American dwellings. It is something much more modern; in fact, a testimony to the peculiar case of Bill and Blanche Russell.
The time is the early 1920’s. The place is New York City. Blanche Russell is a dancer for the Siegfried Follies. She works with upcoming stars such as W.C. Fields, Bob Hope and Ray Bolger. Her career is flourishing and suggests a promising future. It is then, before a cure was developed, that her husband, Bill, is diagnosed with pulmonary tuberculosis. She leaves show business to take her husband to the dry climate of the American Southwest, so he may recover his health. The destination is Utah, but the car breaks down on what is now 89A in front of all those funky looking rocks. With no help around for many miles the couple takes shelter beneath one of the formations for the night.
The following morning Blanche is so taken by the natural beauty of the place she talks Bill into making it their home. They are able to buy the land and make a crude shelter. Trading food and water for labor, a home is built from the cut stones seen today. Soon after they open up their unique home as a restaurant and trading post for early motorists on the way to the north rim of the Grand Canyon. They even have a hand pump gasoline tank installed. The place becomes a popular stop and is known as House Rock Valley. Later it is called Cliff Dwellers Lodge.
For over a decade the Russell’s run this prevalent business from their distinctive home. Blanche eventually tires of the isolation, and they sell the property to Jack Church, who continues the business until turning it into a bar during WWII. The parcel is sold again, but it is abandoned once the newer “Cliff Dweller’s Lodge” is opened just to the north. The original structures the Russell’s built have not been used since the 1950’s.
It is a fun place to walk around. The quirky rock outcroppings and sheer mountains that make up the Vermillion Cliffs are enough to stand in awe of. Homes in these parts have been made from the landscape since the time of the Anasazi.
Back to the Hoodoos. At one time these were more conventional, or “normal” looking columns or large rocks. However, thousands of years of wind erosion worked away the weaker parts of the sandstone, causing these unique formations. The red coloring present all along the Vermillion Cliffs and other canyons in the southwest are a result of an iron-oxide called Hematite. This is present in certain sediments of the rock, and thus, brings the fire red color to the shapes. Many of these fell from higher up, landing as boulders, and were then subjected to the erosion.
Finally, there is historical value here in terms of early roadside America. Every abandoned station that catered to vintage car travel has its own unique story to tell, whether it is along The Lincoln Highway, Route 66 or somewhat obscure state routes like this one. They were not only mom and pop businesses, but homes and social centers. They linked together the early auto routes through the country.
Their time has been lost in the modern rush of interstates and RV’s, but the crumbling remains can be found on the old roads, for now.