If you are anything at all like me, a good drive entails a healthy dose of desolation and open country. Some of the most remote distances I have travelled have been in Nevada. Often, the sole companion on these drives were the gaze of wild horses near the roadside, or the awe-inspiring flight of a Golden Eagle. From the Aspen and wildflower laden mountain tops to the sand, sage and salt marshes below, there are scores of highways, state routes and local roads throughout the state. The Nevada road trips listed below are all on paved roads and easily doable in a few hours or less.
The Extraterrestrial Highway
You will find the southern end of the Extraterrestrial Highway at a cross section of roads in the small desert oasis of Crystal Springs in Lincoln County. Here, immediately after entering highway 375, you will come across the semi-famous road sign, declaring the road ahead as “The Extraterrestrial Highway.”
The road begins in a trajectory to the west, but after a few miles, swoops to the north. 39 miles from Crystal Springs, you come across the sparse township of Rachel. There are only a few buildings here, dominated by the A’le’inn, a small café adorned with UFO memorabilia. Most notable is the small flying saucer suspended from a tow truck out in front. Surrounded on three sides are numerous houses, trailers and small farms. To the direct west there are barren mountains that help to keep the secret of Area 51 somewhere beyond. Don’t go in that direction. You don’t have to be a UFO conspiracy theorist to enjoy this stop. The people are friendly, the food good and the pictures on the walls interesting. The A’le’inn is the only chance for food and a bathroom on this road, so take advantage.
If you are feeling extra adventurous, there is the ghost town of Tempiute about six miles from Rachel, due east on a dirt road. You will have to hike to see most of it. Tempiute was a silver mining town in the 1800’s and made a comeback with Tungsten mines in 1917. Now abandoned for many decades it hosts some old mines ruins and crumbling remnants of cabins.
Heading north from Rachel you will encounter an isolation that is hard to find in most parts of the country. In fact, besides the road itself, there will be nothing man made to be seen for the remaining 60 miles to Warm Springs.
The highway ends in a T at the crossing of Highway 6. If you go right, you’ll be on the way to Ely, left and you’ll soon find yourself in the hilly town of Tonopah. This crossroads is also the site of a ghost town of sorts. Warm Springs sits on the north slope. Alongside the road is the boarded up Warm Springs Bar and Café, closed up in more recent decades. Farther back are much older remains of a corral and stone buildings built into the hill. This used to be a fun place to hike around and explore, however, a fence has been put up to keep out the small percentage of vandals and treasure seekers, ruining it for the rest of us.
The Loneliest Road in America
Although Highway 50 is a transcontinental road, spanning from California to Maryland, it is the central Nevada portion of the road which has been bequeathed “The Loneliest Road in America.” To be more exact, the artery between Fallon and Ely, a 276-mile jaunt, is the heart and soul of loneliness. I love this drive. About 30 years ago I did this drive during winter at night and encountered three oncoming cars the whole 276 miles. It may not be quite that desolate now, but parts of this drive can make you think so.
Leaving Fallon, you’ll first encounter Grimes Point Archeological Area, where you can roam among 8000-year-old petroglyphs. Continuing on, after crossing a couple of large salt flats, you’ll see Sand Mountain off to the left. Although there is no sign for it on the main road, there are the remains of a Pony Express Station not far off. Speaking of Pony Express, Highway 50 through Nevada roughly covers the 1861-62 Pony Express Route, and if you think the route is lonely now, imagine how it felt to those riders.
About an hour out is Middlegate Station, a roadhouse dating back 160 years, packed with history, hamburgers and Pabst Blue Ribbon. Another 63 miles of desolation will get you to Austin. This mountain town is a shadow of its former self from the 1800’s, but the 150-year-old remnants and friendly town folk make it a fun place to explore. There is even a castle! Well, it would pass as a peel tower in England. Stokes Castle served as a summer home to a prominent eastern family with local mining interests. Abandoned for over a hundred years you can still reach it by dirt road.
From Austin you climb high over the peaks of the Toiyabe Range and meander down the eastern slopes through hairpin turns and steep grades, until flattening out into the Big Smoky Valley and open remoteness once again. 70 miles later will get you to Eureka, another splat of township in the central Great Basin. Eureka prides itself as, “The Friendliest Town on the Loneliest Road in America.” Another silver town dating to the 1860’s, Eureka has some of the most preserved mines and mining communities. Either end of town is marked by a slag pile, where mills had once stood. Mining continues to this day in the area. Don’t forget to visit the Eureka Opera house.
Eventually you’ll get to Ely. At the center of town stands the seven story Hotel Nevada built in 1929. It served as Nevada’s tallest building clear until the 1940’s. Spend the night here for reasonable rates. There is a café and casino on the ground floor and their very own walk of fame on the sidewalk outside. Cross the street to the Jailhouse restaurant for a prime rib dinner. Save some time for the Ely Railroad Museum. Take a local ride on a steam train or visit the famous Ghost Train.
There are several ways to go from Ely, but if you stay on 50 you will eventually get to Great Basin National Park, the only national park in Nevada. If you do this, you’ll want to take a tour of the Lehman Caves. But I’ve overstepped the boundaries. You’ve already done the 276 miles from Fallon to Ely.
I must add, for being such a lonely road, there are tons of things to do and see. I have left out dozens of side roads that take you to numerous ghost towns, mines and places of historical significance. It would take many days to see everything along and near this stretch of road.
Also, worth mentioning; no matter which end you begin this Nevada road trip, you’ll want to pick up the Official Highway 50 Survival Guide. If you are really into stamps, you can have the guidebook stamped in each town to commemorate your experience.
Orovada Territory
The far northern parts of Nevada have some of the most beautiful scenery in all the west. Sweeping green valley’s interspersed with tall jagged peaks are commonplace. This road trip begins in Winnemucca, which is accessed by Interstate 80. Highway 95 north emerges from the center of town.
Don’t get too comfortable in the driver’s seat just yet. Only a couple miles from town is the Humboldt County Museum. If your interests delve into 13,000-year-old Mastodon remains, old west history or antique cars, you will most definitely need to stop here. There is also a church, store and house on the premises, all dating from the 1800’s. Continuing north, you’ll discover another museum. This one is an outdoor museum called mother nature. The scenery and wildlife are inspirational to say the least.
About a half an hour out of Winnemucca you’ll come to a fork in the road. If you are wondering which way to go, there is an easy answer. Both ways! I suggest going to the right first. This is State Route 290, a pleasant scenic drive which will deliver you to Paradise Valley in about 20 minutes. This place lives up to its name with its trees, water and well preserved 19th century buildings. I have an earlier post covering Paradise Valley. The extra few minutes to see Paradise Valley is more than worth it.
Back at the fork you can take the other route, which is a continuation of 95 north. You will soon come to a place called Orovada. Being so close to the Oregon border, the name is a combination of both states. However, the name is overshadowed by the stark beauty of the countryside. Consisting of a collection of farms, there is not much to call a town, but for a gas station, store and a few other buildings.
There are various roads branching off here and there that will take you to enchanting vistas. But it you stay on the 95 north you will end up in the border town of Ft. McDermit. This fort was established in 1865 during the Snake War to ensure safety for the stage lines that ran into Oregon and back. Lasting 24 years, it had a longer life span as a fort than others in Nevada. In 1889 it was turned over to the Indian Service and served as a school and part of the Ft. McDermit Indian Reservation. Today, it is still a reservation town, but if you poke around you can find some of the original buildings from the original fort. As you pass through this tiny town you will find yourself in Oregon.
There is no such thing as a disappointing Nevada Road Trip. Those listed above are merely three of hundreds to enjoy in the Silver State. Elevations in Nevada range from about 500 ft in the far south to over 13,000 ft in the White Mountains, so climates, wildlife and conditions alternate radically though-out the state. Prepare accordingly. Camping, hiking, watersports and fun in general are abundant, so if you want to go beyond slot machines and wedding chapels, a better Nevada awaits.
January 8, 2020 at 6:49 am
Very enjoyable article. I have always liked your writing style.
January 28, 2020 at 2:38 pm
Thank You