Going Deep
With all the historical sites, ghost towns and lingering Americana left in this country, there are many places one can go to get ‘lost in time.’ But if you want to go deep, and I mean a thousand years deep, there are few, if any, that can equal the Taos Pueblo. Situated in the mountainous wonderland of northern New Mexico, it is only a few miles from the town of Taos, although it predates the town by as much as six hundred years.
The Taos Pueblo is not a site that was used for a specific time frame and abandoned. The place is still occupied and has been since its construction, making it the longest continuously inhabited community in the United States. The sprawling conglomerate of homes, yards and shops are five stories at its highest point and attached to one another. The Pueblo is made from a combination of earth, straw, water and wooden poles.
Although colorful doors and small windows adorn much of the structure, this was not always the case. For hundreds of years there were no doors or windows and the only opening in or out of a dwelling was by ladder from the roof. This was a form of defense against raiding Apache’s and other enemies. Even today, there are still noticeable dwellings with ladders from the roof.
The dwellings actually consist of two separate structures: the north building (The Hlauuma) and the south building (The Haukwima). Taos is a native word for Red Willow, and indeed the Red Willow River runs between the two structures. On the day I was there, the Hlauuma was closed to the public, but I was free to roam the Haukwima. I was truly amazed at how these people have been able to maintain their traditions, such as the continued use of outside domed ovens, called Hornos, for cooking bread, pastries and cookies. Near the Hornos, and sometimes built overhead, are drying racks made of wooden poles. To this day, the Taos Pueblo does not have plumbing or electricity.
Horno
Local folklore says the Pueblo People originated from Blue Lake, high in the nearby Sangre de Cristo Mountains, their most sacred location. Evidence of human habitation in the area goes back as far as 3000 B.C. There are Pueblo ruins dating to 900 A.D. The Taos Pueblo was constructed not long after.
Outsiders
The first Europeans to lay eyes on the Taos Pueblo was Captain Hernando de Alverado and 20 of his conquistadors, who were exploring the area in 1540. But it wasn’t till around 1619 that San Geronimo de Taos, which was the first Spanish-Franciscan mission here, was built by Priests and Pueblo labor. More than a thousand Spanish settlers followed.
However, the strict methods and enforced religious activities wore thin on the Pueblos, eventually resulting in a revolt in 1680. 400 Spaniards, including 21 Franciscan Friars, were killed and the rest of the settlers driven out by 8000 Pueblo warriors.
The Spaniards returned some years later and more wars and discontent followed. It took until 1821, the year of Mexican Independence, for the Pueblo and Spaniards to become allies. But peace was short lived. In 1846 U.S. Troops occupied New Mexico and the Pueblo had a new enemy. They raided nearby Taos and killed Governor Charles Bent. U.S. Soldiers retaliated, killing 150 Native Americans and destroying the San Geronimo Mission.
Remains of the mission
In 1906 the U.S. government seized 99 000 acres of Pueblo land, including the sacred Blue Lake, and designated it a national forest. Through many years of hard work, negotiations and diligence on the part of the Pueblos and other concerned citizens, 48,000 acres were returned in 1970. With this the Pueblo regained the Blue Lake.
Walk the Walk
Today, for a small fee, you can walk the Taos Pueblo. Immediately upon entering the grounds you can find the ruins of the San Geronimo Mission off to the left. Built in 1706, this was the mission destroyed by U.S. Troops in 1847. The south tower still stands and is surrounded by a cemetery. Back at the entry point, if you continue straight you will proceed through a pueblo village with plenty of shops and friendly locals. You will also come across the new San Geronimo church. I say new because it is the youngest building in the complex, having been built to replace the old mission in 1850. At the end of the village, you will find the two grand structures of the Taos Pueblo: The Hlauuma off to the left and The Haukwima on the right.
If you are one of those people sensitive to energy, you may be overwhelmed with a thousand years of accumulation hanging heavy in the air. The Pueblo residents can be seen entering or exiting their homes or shops, or manning tables with jewelry, clothes and other goods for sale.
You can actually enter the structure by way of one of the shops. I went into The Dancing Hummingbird, ironically thinking I would find a dancing hummingbird. Of course, it was merely the name of the shop. Being later in the day, I was unable to find any food that had been cooked in one of the numerous Hornos. Perhaps you’ll have better luck.
Some of the people there want to maintain their privacy and certain alleys or footpaths may be off limits and marked by a sign. A friendly and quiet people, the Pueblos expect you to be respectful of their sacred world. It is not hard to do as you walk about and realize the historical significance of the place, even more so when considering it is not something of the past, but something that is still breathing and creating history. The feeling is unlike other historical sites.
I encourage you to visit The Taos Pueblo. You can feel, breathe and see the past and present as you meander the oldest continuously occupied site in the country. Many of the places I post on Outerrealmz target a certain group of people. The Taos Pueblo is for everyone.
For more information visit https://taospueblo.com/
Horno in foreground
December 5, 2022 at 6:12 pm
Wow, this is very interesting! Good article.
December 5, 2022 at 7:25 pm
great post, Scott, thank you. I visited Taos Pueblo about 40-45 years ago, and it seems much the same from what you describe – eternal it seems. I’d forgotten much of what it was like and your post brings it all back.