More than a historical site

After several years of false starts, close calls and altered road trips, we finally made it to the curious little town of Nelson. Located in the Eldorado Mountains at the southern tip of Nevada, I was planning on this being another ghost town trip. It was, but it was many other things as well. No matter what rarity or point of interest spurs you to visit, you will be sure to find more than a few things which will lead you to further exploration.

Trish and I rambled into town one February day between rain squalls. We were utterly confused as to what to do or where to go first. It was immediately clear this would be no quick stop. Parking near a ramshackle general store, we got out to get our bearings and start a whole lot of walking. Rather than drag you along a narrative of our hours long trek about Nelson, I’ll cut to the chase and tell you what there is.

A really cool ghost town. Rich in history, (which I will get to later) Nelson is a partially well- preserved ghost town. Surviving structures include general stores, barns, cabins, mining operation remains and some other wooden structures of inquisitive architecture. One building has been converted into a gift shop/museum. There is a sign on the door which reads, “We Don’t Rent Pigs.” Good to know.

Americana. Littered throughout the site are vintage automobiles in varying states of decay and preservation. Just about every decade, on up to the 1960’s, is represented. In addition, there are a couple of old gas stations; more like ancient wooden garages with an 80-year-old gas pump leaning out in front. Americana is not complete without the old fashion signage, and there is plenty to be found in Nelson. From 1930’s era Chevron and Texaco signs to the classic Coca Cola and Good Year Tires signs, everywhere you go you will see old logos and emblems. Fading and dented, they are still very readable.

Odd vehicle collections. Aside from the Americana classics, there is a section of Nelson dedicated to newer, but weirder vehicles. How about a three-story school bus, or a Volkswagen bus converted into a trailer with a bug top added onto the roof? And it just gets more bizarre from there; like a hybrid mining truck/bus monstrosity and other contraptions on wheels that the English language is simply not equipped to describe.

Crashed airplanes. Well, at least abandoned and partially broken ones. An orange and white Navy T-28 Trojan lies sprawled on the desert floor with its engine and canopy close by. Not far is a grey aircraft, crashed nose first into a dune. But the fact is this plane never crashed at all. It was fabricated for the movie, “3,000 Miles from Graceland.” This leads into the next topic.

Film, fashion shoots and weddings. It all happens in this funky little corner of the El Dorado Mountains. Besides the aforementioned movie, music videos and a National Geographic special were filmed here. Fashion shoots are notorious here. There was one in progress when we were there. When desiring a rustic backdrop for a seductively clad model, Nelson is second to none. There was also a wedding shoot going on.

Caves. Just to the east of town are a network of caves. I’m not talking a few dead enders. I’m talking about a network of labyrinths and caverns honeycombed into the mountainside. This playground is open to anyone willing to take a little risk. Poking around here, I heard voices resonating through various openings. I found a narrow passageway that went far underground and opened up into a roomy cavern. Looking down I saw lights and in the green and blue glow an assembled drum set was clearly visible. It was evident they were still setting up. I do not know what band it was, and I was not up for hollering down to inquire with my voice echoing through the caves and chambers.

Other playgrounds. There are scores of trails for hiking, ATV’s, horseback riding and exploration. There are areas of private property to avoid, but southern Nevada’s nature at its best is to be had in the hills surrounding Nelson.  BEWARE! There are plenty of old mines, ventilation shafts and unstable ground in these hills to fall into, so PLEASE stay on the trails. If you cannot resist the old mines, take a tour with Eldorado Canyon Mine Tours. You can access there information at https://eldoradocanyonminetours.com/. Only five miles east of town is the Colorado River!

 

What happened

Any place as colorful as Nelson must have evolved from an equally intriguing past, and Nelson had plenty of color and flare. After centuries of inhabitation by Mohave and Paiute tribes, the Spaniards, on their quest for gold arrived in 1775. They built a small settlement here and named it Eldorado. They did not stay long. After finding only a few silver deposits from their mining efforts, they decided they were in the wrong place and left. It would be another 75 years before anymore mining would take place.

By the early 1850’s  a new breed of miner had arrived. On the coattails of the 49ers, the hard rock miners began digging and blasting. It was then that the real Eldorado was found. After a few years, the secret got out and Eldorado was a boom. Miners from all over converged on the canyon. The emerging town was named after a camp leader, Charles Nelson.

As with most boom towns there was lawlessness and violence. The nearest lawman was over 200 miles away in Pioche. This hostility was at its worst in the 1860’s when gunfighters, civil war deserters and bad men in general were rampant. The Indian raids didn’t help, not to mention the commingling of both northern and southern sympathizers. However, the shining star in all this callousness was the Techatticup Mine, which became the most successful mine in all of southern Nevada. That and a handful of other mines were the life blood of the town.

Nelson also hosted Nevada’s first serial killer. A Cocopah Indian names Quecho, killed 23 people in Nelson alone, including Charles Nelson. Posses failed to hunt him down and it was many decades later that remains, believed to be his, were discovered in a cave.

Nelson continued to produce gold, silver, and other precious metals up until the mines closed in 1942. Suddenly, Nelson was a ghost, and was left to rot in the hot, arid climate. As with other ghost towns, treasure hunters, prospectors and vandals came and went. But a few lingering residents persisted in keeping the place from completely disappearing.

Mine tours helped to put Nelson back on the map, coupled by newer generations wanting to see and feel the rustic remains of history. In the new millennium the entertainment industry, including film and fashion have found Nelson.

 

Still happening

Strangely enough, a historical site like Nelson opens a portal into the future, at least in my reckoning. As mentioned earlier in the post, Nelson has become many things. As popularity grows with similar sites and the historical integrity of such destinations and roadside attractions grows to include multiple eras, representing a kind of “Pop culture” appeal, more people will be inspired to visit.

It is indeed an overused adage, but there really is something for everyone in Nelson. When you visit, make sure you arrive with the most valuable asset of all, time! A drive-by of Nelson is all fun and interesting, but one must venture on foot to see and feel the enormity of all that is there.

The future of Nelson is bright. As more people visit, they will realize that they are not escaping reality, but rather gaining a colorful attribute. Nelson is a place where a vibrant history is becoming decorated by ongoing enthusiasm. The place is growing, not geographically or by residents, but in celebration of our past, present and future.

On highway 95, about 10 miles south of Boulder City, you’ll take the 165-cutoff east. 11 miles later is Nelson. Remember, if you like water, the Colorado River is only another five miles further on that road.