Early November and no snow in the mountains yet. The weather crisp and cloudless. This combination equals a trip to a mountain lake, or more. The goal was, of course, to go for the lesser known. This meant avoiding the built-up shores of Lake Tahoe and seeking the serenity of smaller mountain lakes that are overlooked or unheard of. Trish and I drove into the eastern Sierra on a spectacular morning. Ponds and smaller streams were frozen over, and the sky was a deep azure. We went well above the eight-thousand-foot mark and onto our first lake.
Kirkwood Lake:
On Hwy 88 about 15 miles west of its junction with 89 we found the abrupt right turn to Lake Kirkwood. The narrow road winds down and dead ends at the west end of the lake near where it is fed by Caples Creek. We set out on foot along the south shore. It is not a huge lake, but it is big enough for non-motorized boating and fishing, with camping in the summer months. High mountains surround the lake, and far up on the south side are the Two Sentinels; large pillar like outcroppings.
After a half mile we came upon the Two Sentinels Girl Scout Camp, which is the oldest existing one this side of the Mississippi. It was established in 1936, making it so old that even Trish camped there as a girl, so it was kind of a homecoming for her.
We continued hiking into the mountains above the camp until we came upon Friendship Pond, which is another sentimental place for Trish. This took us a bit closer to the Sentinels, but one would need an entire day to get up there and back. We meandered back down to the lake.
The south shore is exclusively reserved for camping. Besides the scout camp there is a separate trail to public camping grounds with 12 sites. There are several boat docks for smaller watercraft. The other side of the lake (north shore) is dotted with a few homes and private property, however, there is a hiking loop around the lake which is only a little over a mile.

This lake is just plain fun. Beware, the high altitude will cause you to huff and puff a lot more when exerting yourself. Also, keep in mind this is bear country, but if you make enough noise, they should steer clear. We could easily have stayed a whole day at this location, and we just may do that in the summer. We hiked back to the car and found are way back to the Highway and onto the next lake, which wasn’t very far at all.

Caples Lake:

We headed back east on 88, and only about a mile or so later we were crossing the dam at Caples Lake. This lake is much larger than Kirkwood. The highway follows the lake for a couple of miles. Despite its size, this lake at its deepest point is only 62 feet deep. There are various shoals and tiny islands popping up here and there throughout its length. Still, there are facilities for larger boats at Caples. So, if you get tired of paddling around Kirkwood Lake, you can sink your speedboat in Caples Lake from one of their new boat ramps, or even rent a boat. Also, there are cabins to rent, a lodge, store and plenty of camping. Some of the sites are accessible to RV’s. Likewise, if you want to simply view the lake from a safe pull out along the Highway, then this would be your Lake.
As with all these mountain lakes the surrounding scenery is stunning. High mountain peaks, sometimes with year-round snow separated by broad, picturesque meadows with tributaries flowing through them.
Caples Lake is one of those high mountain bodies of water that, when the sun is shining, the water is so blue it almost hurts your eyes. If you are ever in the high Sierra’s, particularly near Highway 88, make Caples Lake a must see.
We continued down the road until we stumbled upon Red Lake.

Red Lake:
Located just east of the Carson Pass, Red Lake is a small lake deep down in a canyon. There is access via dirt roads, one from the highway and one from the east. You won’t find lodges or rentals here. Red Lake accommodates only non-motorized watercraft, and a few primitive camp sites.
Because of these things, Red Lake may be the most ignored and bypassed patch of water on this list. This makes it highly desirable for people like me. If you want to listen to nature, view wildlife, fish in solitude, or just get away from people, this would be a good choice.
Don’t let the 30 water surface acres fool you. This lake is often stuffed with some ten thousand Rainbow Trout, and there is plenty of good fishing accessible from the half mile of shoreline. It is also still large enough for a full day of canoeing, kayaking, row boating, or just splashing around in while admiring the cathedral like cliffs around you.

Fallen Leaf Lake:
I couldn’t wait to get to Fallen Leaf Lake. I had stayed there in a cabin way back in July of 1986. At that time, I was working hard at establishing myself as a professional loafer. My friends were in college and during that summer they were working at the Fallen Leaf Lake Marina and staying in the cabin a short distance away. I was invited for a weekend. It was basically a frat party with a couple girls around and vast amounts of beer consumed in a very short period of time. I remember this lake as nearly deserted and pristine, with unlimited access to the water and hiking trails, a few scattered cabins and plenty of room to play.
That was then.
Fallen Leaf Lake is only a mile south from the massive Lake Tahoe, which is why it is often overlooked. Not that it is puny; three miles long and a mile wide, but still a speck compared to her neighbor to the north.
We descended from Highway 89 down to the lake on a windy one lane road. I remembered this road. What I didn’t remember was when we reached lake level and started snaking through dozens upon dozens of residences, each with private access to the lake. The road often narrowed to the point that it was impossible to find a place to pull over for the occasional vehicle coming the other way. This was, of course, when the wide utility truck or the Linen box truck came barreling at us at 40mph.
Eventually, we made it down to the lodge and marina intact. Everything was closed down, boarded up and the parking lots barricaded. Keep in mind this was in early November and the place was prepared for winter, which warrants my lack of a cheery assessment. I did find a couple places to access the beach. Trish never saw too much because she was often hiding her eyes to the oncoming traffic.
It was certainly not the Fallen Leaf Lake I remembered from 32 years previous. I don’t know if it was truly that different, or if memory picks and chooses, or if the massive beer consumption from that first trip affected the reality of it.
But wait, don’t mark Fallen Leaf Lake from your water list just yet.
Besides the cruddy road, there is evidence this is quite the place in the summer. Although it is not as “lesser known” as it was in decades past, I can see me coming back when the marina, lodge and public beaches are open. There are boat rentals, ramps and more than just a few scattered cabins to rent out. If you are into history or good literature, let it be known that Pulitzer prize winner, John Steinbeck, was employed at the lodge in the 1920’s.

The lakes mentioned above are but a few of hundreds of smaller lakes in the high Sierra’s of California and Nevada. Other lakes in the general vicinity of Lake Tahoe include Silver Lake, Echo Lake, Loon Lake, Wright’s Lake, Lake of the Woods, Topaz Lake and others.
Go prepared. Always pack for a remote location as if you might be stuck there a few days because it has been known to happen. Bring warm clothes, even in the summer. An unexpected cold snap or snow flurries occasionally happen in these mountains during summer. I once lived in Soda Springs (Elevation about 7000 ft) and we got about two inches of snow in the middle of July.
If you want to go during the winter, the beauty is unmatched, but be aware of frequent road closures and dangerous driving conditions. Skiing, snow mobiles and ice fishing are common recreational activities.
No matter what time of year you go, keep in mind the environment and high altitude. It is not unusual to become quickly exhausted or feel dizzy and light headed. Go prepared and armed with some knowledge of the area. When the necessary preparations have been made it is time for the most important part; have fun and relish the unique splendor of the high Sierra Nevada Mountains!