By Scott William Elliott

 

The name Jarbidge is derived from Tsawhawbitts; a Shoshone term for “Cannibal Giants”, or “Monster that lurks in the canyon.” Indeed, the Native-Americans steered clear of these mountains in fear of a giant creature which swooped people up and ate them. The area stayed pretty much void of humans until 1909 when gold was discovered. The lure of gold was much more powerful than any man-eating giants and the population went from a couple to 1500 people in 6 weeks. Western slang and vocabulary issues resulted in Tsawhawbitts being pronounced Jawhawbitts, and before too long, it morphed into Jarbidge.

Jarbidge was calling. The Covid-19 pandemic had kept me quarantined to Nevada and I wanted to go somewhere far, interesting and beautiful without leaving the state. Jarbidge would fulfill all three of these. An added bonus was the fact that Jarbidge was one of only a few places in the Silver State I had not been to.

There are three ways into the canyon and none of them are paved. I was warned a route directly from Elko was tough and brutal, and my Rav-4 may not have the clearance to make it over 100 miles on such a thoroughfare. Another route was a 50-mile dirt road from the Mountain City Highway. Although much shorter, it was rumored that deep snow drifts at Bear Creek Summit kept the road closed to mid-July. (This was early July) The only sure bet from the information I gathered was to take the Three-Creek Road, which skirts the Idaho/Nevada border before diving south into the Jarbidge Mountains. This way was paved all but for the last 18 miles. That would be my way in.

The road to Jarbidge.

As I am sure you have ascertained by this point, this place is quite remote. Not only is it the most remote town in Nevada, but it is one of the most remote communities in the entire country. It is approximately three hours to any town of considerable size; being Elko to the south and Twin Falls to the north. Jarbidge uses Mountain Standard Time, unlike the rest of Nevada, which uses Pacific Time. The reasoning, say the people of Jarbidge, is most of their out of town business is done in Idaho, which uses Mountain Standard Time. Also, the fact that the road north is the only maintained and open road out during the winter has something to do with it.

The ride in was not bad at all. I have been in countless tiny towns that are former mining booms, and they all have their own uniqueness to them. Jarbidge is no exception. Old wooden cabins adorn the main street for almost a half mile. Many of these have been remodeled or added onto for modern living. Others, uninhabited for many decades, are in ruins and near collapse. At the center of town are two bars; one with a café, the community center, a small motel and even a gas pump. Also interspersed along the dusty Main Street is a ranger station, a firehouse, a general store and a couple of other businesses. Today, the population is 60 to 70 people in the summer, and 15 to 20 hearty souls during the frigid and snow-packed winter months. Most of the vehicles in and around town are Side by sides, ATV’s and motorcycles. My sleek Rav-4 felt almost bulky and awkward next to these other machines.

The Outdoor Inn. Good people.

I had the good fortune of meeting with and talking to numerous townsfolk, as well as a few other visitors. Jackie, who is the Secretary of the Jarbidge Community Association, let me in to the otherwise locked Community Center. It is in here where the old photos, stories, antiques and Jarbidge keepsakes are protected. There is one documented incident in Jarbidge that serves as both a last and a first in American history.

Some villain named Ben Kuhl robbed a stagecoach near Jarbidge in 1916. This was the last stagecoach robbery ever recorded, even though it was really just a mail wagon, not a coach. In the process, Mr. Kuhl killed the driver. While stealing the loot, he left bloody handprints behind. This would be the first time in American history that a crime was solved by fingerprints and handprints. He was caught, convicted, and spent 27 years behind bars.

The dastardly villain himself!

On the lighter side, the bar at The Outdoor Inn became a fun place to hang out and was also an exceptionally reliable parlor of information. I met Bud and Ron, both 85 years young and quicker with mind and tongue than most folks. They, of course, were not old enough to have been original settlers, but they were old enough to have known a few of them.

I was also befriended by fellow travelers from Utah and Arkansas. The group of us kept up lively conversations into the night, while an older gentleman played Ragtime tunes on the piano in the corner. This proved far better entertainment than a jukebox. The next morning the other visitors and I congregated for breakfast. It is as if everyone in Jarbidge, including guests, are one close knit family. The only comparison that comes close in terms of hospitality would be my visit to Silver City, Idaho, some years before. See https://outerrealmz.com/night-in-silver-city/.                                                                                    .

Just as amazing as the town and the people within, was the pristine wilderness around it. I was camped 2 or 3 miles to the south at a place called Lower Bluster, on the Jarbidge River. The sound of the water and walks in the wilderness did wonders for the soul. There was an old chimney in camp. The old timers told me there were plenty of cabins up and down the river a hundred years ago.

Old cabin site.

Don’t miss the old jailhouse!

I divided my time between camp and town. Standing next to the gas pump in town was the only place I had phone service, and I went there to check on any messages from the outside world. A jaunt to the general store for some ice cream and, of course, a gathering at the Outdoor Inn were in order. Next to the general store is the old Jarbidge jail, which I also explored. It was used up until 1945 and looks as if it has been relatively untouched since. It provides a clear account of how rural jail life was like in the early part of the 1900’s.

Unfortunately, I was only there two nights, and before I knew it, the time had come to go back to the real world. I broke camp at dawn and took a different way out. Donna, the awesome bartender at The Outdoor Inn, had told me they had opened the road to The Mountain City Highway.

It was a steep and rocky 15% grade at first, but after crossing Bear Creek Summit, the road smoothed out some, and a leisurely drive ensued with some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen.

The most incredible and attractive thing about Jarbidge and the surrounding wilderness is there is literally something for everyone. History and legends run deep here. If you are into geology, there are beholding rock formations north of town. If you want outdoor sports, this place is heaven. Off-roading, horseback riding, hiking, rock climbing, fishing, camping, prospecting and exploration of every kind imaginable, barely scratches the surface. Elk is abundant and in the early Autumn, hunters come here from all over. However, if you are not into any of these things and only want to escape the crazy world for some seclusion, like I did, then this is your place as well.

Downtown Jarbidge

For more information you can visit electronically first at https://visitjarbidge.org/.  Plan on at least 2 or 3 days in the area to get a full appreciation for it. Also, plan on going back again because you will want to. I am definitely going back, and for a longer stay. Maybe I will see you there.

What about the evil man-eating giants you ask?  Well, It appears as if, over the years, our cannibal giants have been downgraded to nothing more than a group of measly 7 or 8 foot sasquatches. There are reports that hunters and campers have had runs-ins with these things, and even been run out of camp by them. This has resulted in Bigfoot investigations and expeditions in the area, which is another fun thing to indulge in, if you are into anything paranormal.

As far as my own camping experience there, it was all peaceful and calm. There were noises in the forest at night, but nothing any more unusual than in any other forest. There were plenty of Monarch Butterflies, Hummingbirds, and bugs. Standing alone in the wilderness, the only monster I found was, perhaps, myself.