It just so happens Trish keeps track of the ever-growing list of places I have promised to take her. As the list has grown and time has gotten shorter, I have begun to feel somewhat of a procrastinator. Basking in the brightness of a mid-winter thaw, I decided to redeem myself by affording the opportunity to cross a destination off the list. Albeit, it was the closest place possible, however it shortened the list by one before two or three more were added.
Nestled in the trees at the foot of the eastern Sierra’s, the small community of Genoa is not only the oldest settlement in Nevada, but also one of the best preserved. From highway 395 south of Carson City, there are two ways into Genoa; Jacks Valley Road which meanders in from the northeast, or further south you can catch SR206, also known as Genoa Lane, for a straight shot that ends abruptly at the steep walls of the Sierra’s.
Originally inhabited by the Washoe Tribe, settlers did not enjoy the stark beauty of this place until fur trappers came through in the early 1800’s. In 1850 it was designated as part of the Utah Territory and Brigham Young was made its Governor. The following year Mormon pioneers arrived, a trading post was established and the place was named Mormon Station. In 1855 the name was changed to Genoa after the birthplace of Christopher Columbus in Italy. By then a town had grown and became a commercial center on the Overland Immigrant Trail. Many businesses thrived along Main Street, including a saloon built in 1853 that is still in business (more on that in a few paragraphs.)
One memorable citizen of Genoa was one Jon Albert Thompson, AKA Snowshoe Thompson, who transported mail over the mountains by snowshoes and ski’s between Placerville, California and Genoa. Today there is a statue of Snowshoe Thompson at Mormon Station State Historic Park in downtown Genoa. Also, at this site is a replica of the original Mormon Station building which burned down in 1911.
From this park, Trish and I began our journey around the quaint town. It was a Wednesday, and we soon found out that Wednesday is the day the museums are closed; the one at the park as well as one across the street in the old courthouse building. Go figure. Nevertheless, we made do with what we had, which were our feet. We walked the park awhile and took pictures of some of the old buildings on the other side of the road before finally heading that way. Besides the aforementioned brick courthouse turned museum, a gun shop, a very high energy rock shop, an Italian eatery, hotel and antique store line this part of the street.
Continuing south along Main Street we crossed into the older and, what I like to call, the fairytale part of town, consisting of three buildings in a row. First is the red brick two story Masonic Hall, built in the early 1870’s. Its old green iron shutters and 19th century signage is a signal of the love of history in this town. Sandwiched between the hall and the old saloon is an antique shop which is an antique in of itself. Walking the path along the side of the building to the rear there are countless old purple bottles and other artifacts from the 1800’s. I had visited a few years previously, and amazingly nothing has been stolen or disturbed as far as I could tell. This may be a sign of respect or the fear that local patrons from the neighboring saloon may come after you if they see you hauling a box of relics to your car. Either way, it is refreshing to see that these antiques out in the open are left alone.
Then there is the saloon itself. I told you I would get to it. It is most definitely one of the contributing factors in making Genoa the Jewel of Nevada. Built in 1853 The Genoa Bar is the longest continuous operating bar in Nevada, or as the sign on the façade reads; “Nevada’s oldest thirst parlor.” This structure, as well, is of a brick, as these were some of the only building to survive the terrible fires in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. A sign on the door clearly stares, “No Horses Allowed.” This is a good thing, as neither Trish nor myself had brought any with us. The sign is complimented by the door handle, which is about two feet from the ground, meaning that if you did ride up on a horse you would have to dismount to reach it. I knelt down, opened the door and we went in.

Parts of the hardwood flooring are original, but some of it has been replaced along the bar itself and where the heavier foot traffic has been. The bar top as well, or at least the half closest to the door is original. I got Trish a coke and myself a Moscow Mule and we took a seat at a table near the heat from the wood stove. Behind the bar is a large diamond dust mirror that was made in Glasgow, Scotland in the 1840’s. It was shipped to San Francisco and brought over by covered wagon. This old tavern has seen its share of celebrities, including President Ulysses S. Grant, all the governors of Nevada and of course Mark Twain. But where didn’t he go. More recently the likes of Clark Gable, Red Skelton, Clint Eastwood, Ann Margaret, Willie Nelson, Johnny Cash and Charlie Daniels, just to name a few, have graced this interior for a cool one. Hanging from an antler is a dust covered bra. It is hard to see that it is a black leopard print, but I doubt there are many other saloons where Raquel Welch left her bra.
Trish and I warmed to this place immediately, which is rare for us. We wanted to sit there admiring and imagining without end as an occasional local would come or go. But Trish didn’t want me to keep drinking Moscow Mules, so after about a half hour we departed. Our rumbling stomachs reminded us we had not eaten that day and we crossed the street to the deli where ice cream and sandwiches our served. Sadly, there was a crisis in progress when we walked in. They were out of both sourdough and rye bread and we were forced to take our hunger elsewhere.
If Genoa is the jewel of Nevada, then its crowning glory is something called The Candy Dance. It has been an annual tradition every September since 1919. Also known as “The dance that brought light to Genoa,” the original idea was to create an event that would raise money to purchase electric street lights for the small town. Candy would be made and passed around during a street dance, flowed by a midnight dinner for all ticket holders.
The first Candy Dance was both successful and popular and the street lights were installed. However, a dance the following year was planned in order to pay for the year’s worth of electricity for the lights, and the same for the next year. Today, hundreds of people attend the Candy Dance and not only are the lights paid for, but the event pays for most of the town’s annual budget!
If candy dancing is not on your to do list, you may want to try the Genoa Western Heritage Days event. Held on the last weekend in April you can listen to a variety of live bands and world renown Cowboy Poets, or simply stroll through the many street vendors and soak up the good vibes. There are also Civil War, and Native American groups. Prize winning horses and demonstrations of pioneer life are also on display.
Of the many reasons to go to Genoa, none are more evident than the beauty of its location and the warmth of the small but proud population. You’ll want to spend the better part of a day there, as there are many other attractions not covered in this post. History, fun, uniqueness, and adventure make Genoa a place that has something for everyone. It is truly a jewel to see.